Italian-born Massimo Navarretta has the heart and soul of a wine-loving farmer. Navarretta is the chef-owner of highly regarded Italian restaurant, Onotria Wine County Cuisine in Costa Mesa. He recently joined me in my home kitchen to share his delectable pan-seared branzino topped with a mound of herbaceous salad.
Branzino, a Mediterranean seabass, yields flesh that is flakey with an appealing, delicate flavor. He says that generally even people who don’t have a love affair with fish tend to love this fish. A skin-on filet weighs about 4 to 5 ounces and is perfect for pan searing in a skillet.
As he worked in the kitchen, his joy fueled long bouts of philosophical conversation. He explained that he loves working in the kitchen, appreciating the physical aspect of taking something and transforming it into something different.
“Long ago I decided to make people happy with food that expresses my inner joy,” he said. “In cooking I didn’t want to be a cover band, I wanted to write the music.”
And yes, his cooking music is irresistible.
Credit: Curt NorrisFavorite O.C. Eatery: Oh, it’s now closed, but it used to be Sam Woo in Irvine. They had five live fish tanks.
Best Cookbook: Luigi Carnacina’s “Great Italian Cooking.” I worked with this chef for a couple of weeks and really liked his old-fashioned persona.
Words of Wisdom: Kindness is inexpensive. Use it.
Few People Know: About my love of philosophy.
To Relax: Typically, I read a nice book or walk.
Massimo’s Branzino with Herb and Tomato Salad
Yield: 1 serving
1 skin-on branzino fillet
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
6 heirloom cherry tomatoes, halved, different colors preferred
1/2 cup baby arugula
1 thin lemon slice, cut into tiny pieces with the rind
Separated leaves of 1 fresh parsley sprig
Separated leaves of 1 fresh mint sprig
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
About 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Dressing: extra-virgin olive oil and fresh lemon juice to taste, plus salt if needed
1. Gently pat fish dry with a paper towel. Lightly season cut side of branzino with salt and pepper; set aside
2. For the salad topping, in a small bowl combine tomatoes, arugula, lemon pieces, parsley, and mint; set aside.
3. Trim off strip of belly fat along one side of the fillet leaving skin behind (see video). Cut the belly fat into 3 pieces. Heat 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil in a medium-size nonstick skillet on medium heat. When oil is shimmering, add branzino skin-side up. Add belly fat pieces along the side (Navarretta adds that why go to the pharmacy and buy fish oil—instead, enjoy the belly fat). When bottom surface of fish is nicely browned (about 4 minutes) turn the fish skin-side down. Cook until branzino is just cooked through, for about 2 to 3 minutes. Place belly fat pieces on a slice of lemon and place on the serving plate.
4. Meanwhile, dress the salad topping: Toss salad with about 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil and toss (enough oil so that the leaves are lightly coated). Add about 1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice; toss. Taste and add a little salt as needed; toss again. Place cooked branzino on serving plate and top with salad topping.
Onotria Wine Country Cuisine, 2915 Red Hill Ave., A108, Costa Mesa
Cathy Thomas is an award-winning food writer and has authored three cookbooks: “50 Best Plants on the Planet,” “Melissa’s Great Book of Produce,” and “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce.” For more than 30 years, she has written about cooking, chefs, and food trends. She was the first newspaper food journalist to pioneer taping how-to culinary videos for the web. cathythomascooks.com
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