Luis Munoz’s eyes dance when he cooks. Well, not literally, but his joy is obvious as he creates his dishes. Munoz, the executive chef at Moulin and Bouillon in Newport Beach, views culinary tasks with elation as well as great respect, explaining to me that details matter. Sadly, he says, chefs sometimes get in a comfort zone and quality suffers.
Recently he joined me in my kitchen to tape a video. He prepared an irresistible halibut adorned with mushroom butter sauce and presented atop a bed of creamy cauliflower mash. Indeed, every detail paid off in flavor bling. He utilized dried porcini powder to create a vibrant crust on one side of the fish. The powder is de regueur for use in hearty soups, pan sauces, and pasta. But using it as a coating on white fish is new to me. The earth-colored powder provides a savory umami flavor with earthy, nutty, and slightly woody notes.
The halibut was cooked to perfection, using a gentle medium-low heat from start to finish. Halibut can be a challenge, drying out and losing flavor if it is even slightly overcooked. If desired, mahi mahi or swordfish may be substituted for the halibut.
Born in Guadalajara, Mexico, Munoz moved to California 24 years ago, eager to further his culinary career. Along the way, he was fortunate to find two mentors that recognized his talent. Dennis Brask, then the executive chef at Five Crowns in Corona del Mar, recognized his talent and enthusiasm and took him under his wing. And Cathy Pavlos, then the executive chef-owner of Lucca Café in Irvine, as well as Provenance in Newport Beach, was a very important mentor. She gave him opportunities to succeed and encouragement, teaching him about Mediterranean cuisines and sharing her Italian grandmother’s treasured recipes.
Prepare this halibut and soak up the joy. Chef urges you to feel the love and passion.
My Secret Talent: Ice carving.
Home Freezer Treasure: Trader Joe’s frozen onion tart–great when I get home with a glass of wine.
Early Days: I grew up with my mom and grandmother. At 8, I was sent to the market to buy cilantro. I came back with beautiful parsley. A lesson followed.
Drink of Choice: An Old-Fashioned made with either Japanese whisky or Macallan (Scotch) whisky
Favorite Eats: Molinari Delicatessen in San Francisco for its artisanal meats, cheeses, breads and sandwiches
Something Few Know About Me: I practice karate.
Prized Possession: The light blue slippers that my grandmother crocheted for me 27 years ago. If I get sick, I put on those slippers and I get well in two days.
Childhood Hero: My older sister Paula; she always protected me and taught me about safety.
Most Underrated Ingredient: Crème Fraiche–it’s unique on the tongue and I love it in mustard sauce.
If I Wasn’t a Chef: I’d be a lawyer–I like fairness in life. I can see solutions in a fair way.
Luis Munoz’s Halibut with Porcini Mushroom Sauce and Cauliflower Mash
Yield: 2 servings
Cauliflower Puree
1 small head of cauliflower cut into small florets (about 2 cups)
leaves from 1 sprig fresh thyme
salt to taste
ground white pepper to taste
1/4 cup heavy cream
Halibut
2 (6 ounces each) center-cut boneless, skinless Alaskan halibut
Salt and ground white pepper to taste
2 tablespoons porcini powder
About 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil or grapeseed oil
Optional: 2 porcini mushrooms, or 3 cremini mushrooms, thickly sliced top to bottom
Sauce
2 teaspoons olive oil or grapeseed oil
1 shallot, finely diced
1 teaspoon olive oil or grapeseed oil
1 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon heavy whipping cream, salt and ground white pepper to taste
1 sprig fresh thyme
4 ounces unsalted butter (cut into 4 pieces)
1 1/2 teaspoons porcini powder
Garnish
Micro fresh celery leaves or fresh chervil leaves or sliced fresh chives
Credit: Curt NorrisCook’s Notes
Porcini powder is sold online and at some specialty markets. You can make it if you like: Use a small coffee grinder that is devoted to grinding spices and dried mushrooms; grind dried porcini mushrooms until ground.
1. Prepare the cauliflower mash: Place florets in a small saucepan. Cover with water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, covered, until just tender. Drain well and place in a food processor. Add salt and white pepper to taste. Add leaves from a sprig of fresh thyme and cream; process until pureed. Taste and adjust seasoning if needed. Return to saucepan and set aside.
2. Prepare halibut: Season fish on both sides with salt and white pepper. Place porcini powder on a plate and spread it out to about the same size as the fish. Dip one side of the fish in porcini powder. Place oil in a large, nonstick skillet on medium-low heat. Add fish, porcini-dusted side down. Cook about 6 to 7 minutes on each side, or until just cooked through (see video for visual clues for doneness). During the last few minutes of cooking, add fresh mushroom slices on empty places on the skillet, adding a little more oil to that area if needed. Cook mushrooms until browned and semi-tender.
3. Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Add oil to medium saucepan set on medium-high heat. Add shallots, thyme, salt, and pepper; cook until shallots are translucent (do not brown). Add white wine and simmer until just a little of the liquid remains. Add cream and porcini powder; stir to combine. Add butter and whisk constantly until sauce is emulsified and thickened. Remove from heat. Reheat cauliflower.
4. To plate: Place a scoop of cauliflower mash in the center of each plate. Flatten it slightly with the back of a spoon. Place halibut on top, porcini-dusted side up. Add the mushroom slices and spoon sauce on top. Garnish with micro celery leaves or chives or chervil. Serve.
Source: Luis Munoz, executive chef Moulin and Bouillon in Newport Beach
Cathy Thomas is an award-winning food writer and has authored three cookbooks: “50 Best Plants on the Planet,” “Melissa’s Great Book of Produce,” and “Melissa’s Everyday Cooking with Organic Produce.” For more than 30 years, she has written about cooking, chefs, and food trends. She was the first newspaper food journalist to pioneer taping how-to culinary videos for the web. cathythomascooks.com
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