A simple sentence elicites a surprising reaction: “We won’t be ordering any of the pizzas.” That’s what I say to our server, Ellie, on a visit to the new Monaco Italian Kitchen in Irvine. Her eyes grow wide, and she draws a quiet gasp. Then her hand rises to her chest, and she repeats the statement in the form of a question: “You won’t be having any pizzaaaa?” It’s as if I’d committed blasphemy. If she were wearing pearls, she’d be clutching them.
Six varieties appear on Monaco’s menu, and their descriptions are enticing. But there’s antipasti to choose from, along with pastas made in-house—from scratch—and classic entrees like braised lamb shank, branzino, and chicken piccata. Yet, given Ellie’s alarm, I have to rethink my decision—maybe there’s something special about these pies. Turns out, there is.
For starters, the Neapolitan-inspired dough—like the pasta—is made from scratch. So it’s fresh—and not too yeasty—with just the right chew and an outer edge that’s crisp and laced with delicate blisters from the baking process. And the combinations of toppings are refined and measured to allow the taste and texture of that wonderful crust to shine through. The Diavola, for example, serves up layers of smoked mozzarella, San Marzano D.O.P. plum tomatoes, thin slices of spicy Calabrese sausage, bits of Fresno chili peppers, and olives. The Bianca is dressed in garlic and three luscious cheeses—delicate fior di latte, fresh ricotta, and nutty Grana Padano.
So my husband Art and I change our minds and ask Ellie for her recommendation—the Prosciutto. And wow, what a flavor-packed treat. It, too, is topped with sweet San Marzano plums, but this rendition is teamed with buttery-rich burrata, a handful of peppery arugula, and a drizzle of sweet honey to cut the signature bitterness of the greens. We each take a bite and exchange a look. It is, quite possibly, the best pizza I’ve ever tasted.
There’s more to like on the menu, however. Perhaps that’s due to the care and study that goes into creating all of the offerings. The culinary team spent weeks traveling through Italy, feasting on foods from various regions in the country for inspiration. Most everything is made in-house, and what isn’t— or can’t be—is flown in from Italy to ensure authenticity. And it doesn’t hurt that this is just the latest among a few other successful restaurant concepts by entrepreneur Tony Monaco, whose Italian roots serve as the inspiration for this spot. (The Blind Pig in Rancho Santa Margarita, Blind Coyote in Yorba Linda, and The Trough Sandwich Kitchen in RSM and Irvine are all sister establishments.) We enjoy everything we try during our visit, which includes two starter dishes, a pasta, and dessert.
From the antipasti selections, we choose the arancini (fried orbs of risotto) and the burrata with tomato jam. The arancini arrives in a bowl atop a scoop of bright marina sauce. A delicate breading encases the three spheres, which are dusted with finely shredded Grana Padano cheese, which has a taste that’s similar to Parmesan but less sharp. The first bite reveals a deliciously cheesy-rich risotto concoction, and it’s wonderful. Equally delightful is the burrata cheese with tomato jam. I love the complexity of burrata. Its round shape and thin outer layer belie the creamy texture and milky flavor of the cheese within. Here, it’s teamed with a few thin slices of crispy ciabatta—so you can slather on the cheese and that sweet, tangy tomato jam, of which I can’t get enough.
Next comes the pasta—spaghetti with clams (or alla vongole, as it appears on the menu). The portion is large enough to split, especially after the pizza and starters. Long al dente noodles support a fair helping of mollusks—all of it bathed in a light sauce of olive oil and garlic that carries a little kick from Calabrian peppers. (If you don’t like that kind of heat, you can order the dish without the chili or ask for it on the side.) It makes for a wonderful finish to the savory selections of our meal.
We’re full, but because every dining experience deserves a sweet ending, we make room for Monaco’s chocolate hazelnut confection. A dense chocolate cake serves as the base, followed by a layer of hazelnut Chantilly cream, and a thin layer of dark chocolate covers it all. If that doesn’t tempt you, there’s also a lemon and blueberry cheesecake with a streusel topping and authentic tiramisu made of sweet mascarpone sandwiched between lady fingers soaked in espresso, with a dusting of cocoa powder on top.
Now, I want to circle back to the topic of pizza one last time. A friend once boasted about the best cheese pizza he’d ever had. It was from a place in Palm Springs, and he said he’d drive all the way to the desert just to get one of those pies. I didn’t think he was serious. But now I get it. I’d probably travel that far for Monaco’s Prosciutto round. Fortunately, I only have to drive to Irvine.
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