When I hear about a new restaurant, I usually wait a few weeks—sometimes months—before paying a visit, especially if I’m planning to write about the place. That’s because it can take some time to work through kinks in service and culinary execution before the team hits its stride. But I couldn’t wait that long to try ILYA, “Top Chef” alum Charbel Hayek’s latest concept in San Clemente, and it only took about a minute for me to RSVP “yes” to a special media dinner held just eight days after it opened. It didn’t disappoint.
Hayek describes the menu as “coastal Mediterranean,” with offerings like grilled octopus and prawns, lobster spaghetti and spicy rigatoni, beef tartare and barramundi carpaccio—a terrific selection of seafood and steaks, as well as pork, lamb, and poultry. The bar program taps into the Mediterranean theme with clever spins on familiar sips. For example, the vermouth in the martini is infused with za’atar (a wonderful spice blend of oregano, thyme, marjoram, and sumac), while the old fashioned uses house-made date syrup instead of simple syrup. Everything—the food and the drinks—is beautifully presented.
For our group dinner, Hayek’s team delivered a parade of creations served family style, starting with a basket of toasted sourdough and the best fresh-baked pita I’ve ever had. It was served alongside a tantalizing mezze plate comprising a trio of flavorful dips—house-made hummus, muhammara (a delicious concoction of roasted red peppers, walnuts, and pomegranate molasses), and baba ghanouj (a rich mixture made of eggplant, lemon juice, and various seasonings). Olives and raw veggies also graced the plate, and we were treated to a wonderful spectrum of textures (smooth, crunchy, chewy) and tastes (nutty, sweet, tangy, smokey).
Other standouts from the starter menu include the grilled prawns with loomi (black lime) butter, garlic, and lemon. The grilled octopus had a pleasant bite and just the right amount of char. It came alongside a scoop of romesco and pickled radish halves. And the meatballs—oh, the meatballs. Three rounds made of ground beef chuck and pork shoulder arrived in a skillet, resting under a blanket of marinara sauce with a dusting of Parmesan on top. Those with adventuresome tastes may want to order the escargot, prepared with garlic and maître d’hotel butter (that’s butter blended with parsley, lemon juice, salt, and pepper). But I can’t vouch for that dish because it wasn’t included in our cornucopia of offerings.
Three pasta dishes appear on the menu—tagliatelle in a creamy truffle-Parmesan sauce, and the two aforementioned options. I think I ate more than my share of the lobster spaghetti. The sweet, tender chunks of shellfish and noodles were tossed in a tasty tomato-basil sauce. And the spicy rigatoni came in a vodka sauce that carried just enough heat to tingle the taste buds without lingering too long.
On the lighter side, the barramundi carpaccio was a winner. Bite-size morsels of delicate white fish that practically melted in the mouth were bathed in a light, bright sauce of lemon dotted with a basil-olive oil emulsion. I returned to that plate for seconds and had to restrain myself from a third helping.
I also loved the branzino, which was spatchcocked and grilled, and plated atop beurre blanc with a drizzle of zhoug (a zesty cilantro sauce). The sole is prepared meuniere-style, pan-cooked in butter with a delicate breading and finished with a butter sauce zhuzhed up with finely chopped parsley and lemon juice. ILYA incorporates a generous spoonful of capers into the mix.
There’s plenty for meat-lovers to choose from, too—Australian wagyu with chimichurri, a New York strip with green peppercorn sauce, a 28-ounce Prime bone-in rib eye, and a 32-ounce porterhouse, with your choice of sauce for the latter two. And there’s a spring chicken on the menu that’s prepared a la moutarde (meaning with mustard).
As for sides, the purple and orange carrots had a sublime spiced honey glaze, and the green beans came with a little kick as well, thanks to red chili flakes that were tossed in with sundried tomatoes, shallots, and garlic.
And do not pass on dessert—no matter how full you may feel. Of course, tiramisu is an offering, but because it’s served family style, it’s huge—a long, full construction of layers that you spoon from a large platter. The lemon tart is almost too pretty to eat, with perfect little dollops of lemon pudding and whipped cream atop a cookie crust resting on a light basil emulsion. And the tres leches cake is just as delightful and elegant—two thin layers of cake soaked in dulce de leche and topped with a medley of fresh berries.
The restaurant—which was packed the evening I visited—is just as pretty as what’s on the plates. A spacious patio takes up about half of the space, giving the whole place a light and airy feel. The decor is chic yet rustic—like something you’d see in a villa in Greece or Italy.
Born in Lebanon and trained at the French School of Excellence, the 28-year-old Hayek has experienced an almost meteoric rise in popularity. He won “Top Chef Middle East + North Africa” in 2021 and competed with O.C.’s celebrated Chef Amar Santana in “Top Chef: World All-Stars” in 2023. A year later, he opened Ladyhawk at the Kimpton La Peer in West Hollywood—and that was named Los Angeles Magazine’s #1 Best New Restaurant. On the heels of Ladyhawk came his second popular concept, Laya, in Hollywood—impressive credits for a chef who hasn’t even turned 30.
I began hearing whispers about Hayek’s plans to open a spot in Orange County early last year, and when the announcement went out in August, I jumped at the chance to interview him for Orange Coast’s October issue.
“This menu really encapsulates my career—from my roots in Lebanon and my time in France, to my time in Los Angeles,” he said at the time. “I’ve been working on the actual menu for the past six months, focusing on dishes that diners may have some familiarity with and then presenting them in my own style. The goal isn’t to confuse the diner; it’s to make them feel comfortable, but also a bit surprised and blown away.” I think he hit the target.
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