It opened in 1926 as The Arches, and over the next 80-plus years, it became a place where power players dined and families gathered for celebrations. In 2008, the iconic destination restaurant underwent a rebirth when Hollywood producer Joseph “McG” Nichol and industry veteran Jordan Otterbein (a Newport native) teamed up to take over operations. Today, A Restaurant still stands sentry at West Coast Highway and Old Newport Boulevard, and it’s just as popular as ever, serving up sophisticated sips and a menu of seasonally inspired new-American fare curated by Executive Chef Robert Gomez. And his spicy yellowfin tuna is one of A’s most popular signature appetizers.
1. Japanese Eggplant
There are hundreds of eggplant varieties, each with its own texture and flavor. Gomez uses Japanese eggplant for the base upon which to build this dish. It’s narrower than the more common Italian variety. And because the skin is thinner, it doesn’t require removal. The flavor is mild, and the texture once cooked is tender and creamy. Gomez tosses thin slices in panko breadcrumbs.
“Ensuring the eggplant is perfectly fried to achieve that ideal crispiness is key to the dish’s success.”
2. Yellowfin Tuna
Popular for its flavor and texture, yellowfin is among the most versatile of the species. It can be used for sushi, served up seared, grilled like a steak, and is even available canned. While it carries more flavor than albacore, it’s not quite as bold as bluefin. Here, the yellowfin is finely chopped and tossed with A Restaurant’s own spicy chili aioli sauce.
“Our inspiration was to create something that combines a variety of textures without compromising the integrity of each ingredient.”
3. Sweet Soy Sauce
Once the tuna mixture is spooned on top of the fried eggplant, the A team adds a drizzle of sweet soy sauce. Not to be confused with regular dark soy sauce, which is thin and salty, the sweet kind is thick like hoisin and oyster sauce. It’s flavored with sugar and often aromatic herbs like anise, cinnamon, or cloves.
“Every time we create a dish, our goal is to thoughtfully combine ingredients in a way that feels both unique and harmonious.”
4. Wasabi Tobiko
Those little pearls are wasabi tobiko. Wasabi, of course, is the horseradish-like condiment that accompanies sushi. And tobiko are the eggs, or roe, of flying fish. Infuse the latter with wasabi, and you have tiny flavor-packed beads that pop in your mouth to release a complex profile that’s briny, a little sweet, and slightly smoky.
“What I love most about this dish is that it’s the perfect bite, perfectly sized and incredibly satisfying. It leaves you wanting just one more.”
5. Chives
The delicate green grassy strands are more than just a garnish. They bring a delicate punch to any dish with their mild onion-like flavor. Here, you’ll find a sprinkle of finely chopped chives on each little stack.
“Our spicy tuna appetizer brings together the delicate softness of the tuna with the crisp texture of Japanese fried eggplant, all enhanced by our signature spicy sauce, sweet soy, fresh chives, and wasabi tobiko. The result is a beautifully balanced dish layered with flavor and texture.”
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