“Oh, look—it’s Toto!
Can we take a picture with your little dog?”
I heard that—or similar words—a lot during my weekend getaway with my Yorkshire Terrier. We took a road trip—just Holly and I—to San Diego and made the Hotel del Coronado our home for a couple of days. It happened to be at the start of the holidays, and the whole property—which recently completed a six-year, $550-million restoration—was decked out with festive lights and 11 Christmas trees decorated in themes like “The Road to Oz” and “There is No Place Like Home.” That might seem a little random, but it was really quite fitting: Between 1904 and 1917, L. Frank Baum, who wrote the original 14-book series, penned a number of those stories during his regular winter stays at the landmark hotel. And, of course, the newest film adaptation, “Wicked: For Good,” had just been released in theaters. So all the characters of Oz, including Toto, seemed to be top of mind at the time.
It had been at least a decade since I visited The Del, and even then, I didn’t see much of it. I was there for a family event, and my husband and I didn’t stay the night. But when I heard about the renovation this past summer, I began looking for an opportunity to make my way down the coast to San Diego. That opportunity arose when my husband mentioned plans for a weekend in Las Vegas with his friends to see the Raiders play the Browns. With The Del’s pet-friendly disposition and recent refresh, I thought it would be the perfect road trip destination with my Holly. And, indeed, it was.
There is so much to explore—both on property and off. The Del is steps away from the many downtown shops and restaurants along Orange Avenue. But I felt no need to venture outside the resort grounds. Plenty of grassy areas and expansive lawns dot the property, including a bucolic courtyard and garden. A nice boardwalk lines the beach along the resort’s back side. And a walking path takes you past The Del’s own restaurant row. (More on that in a bit.)
But this place is special for a lot of reasons. For starters, it’s historic. Construction began in 1887, after two businessmen—Elisha Babcock Jr. and Hampton L. Story—were so captivated by the setting in San Diego Bay that they purchased the land with the intention of building a grand hotel that would be “the talk of the Western world.” They divided the property into parcels for residential use and held a land auction that fetched $2.25 million, which was used to cover building costs (totaling $600,000) and furnishings (a tally of $400,000). The hotel began accepting guests in January 1888 and was considered a technological marvel—wired for electricity and telephones, and outfitted with a steam-powered hydraulic elevator (a rarity at the time).
The hotel has seen expansions and improvements through the years, and has remained an iconic fixture of the San Diego landscape, standing majestically along a beautiful stretch of shore. With its stunning original Victorian architecture and brilliant red roofing atop a gleaming white exterior, it has served as a backdrop for films and a fitting destination for presidents, celebrities, and socialites.
Naturally, with that kind of longevity—and wear and tear—upkeep and occasional modernizations are essential to maintain an elevated status. And the most monumental to date began in 2019. It touched every inch of the property’s five guest “neighborhoods”— Beach Village, Shore House, The Views, The Cabanas, and The Victorian, which is where Holly and I settled in.
The Victorian—an all-wooden structure—dates back to the original construction 130 years ago, and it’s the heart of the resort. Its grand exterior and large front patio are the first things you see when you drive up. Inside, you’ll find an exquisitely renovated space with walls, pillars, and arches made of richly stained wood embellished by ornate detailing; parquet flooring; a high open-beam ceiling with a dramatic chandelier hanging from the center; and a large reception desk. The design aesthetic is an impeccable match to the era of its origin.
Guest rooms and event spaces branch off from each side of the lobby to form a rectangle with an open central courtyard garden. Opposite from the lobby, a walking path leads guests from The Victorian to lawn areas, the spa, pool, other neighborhoods, the beach, and restaurants. And there are plenty of those:
- Casual fare can be found at the Beach & Taco Shack, which overlooks the sand and ocean.
- Italian grab-and-go and quick-serve offerings are at (dog-friendly) ENO Market & Pizzeria.
- Babcock & Story Bar beckons with its cool tavern vibe.
- Sun Deck (also dog-friendly) offers coastal cuisine and tropical cocktails by the fire pit overlooking the boardwalk and beach.
- Ocean Club offers daily afternoon “presentations” and a variety of bites and sips to guests who opt for a concierge-style experience.
- Serea serves up an ocean-to-table menu of fresh seafood, craft cocktails, and interesting wines.
- Nobu Del Coronado dishes out its world-renowned sushi and signature dishes.
- And Veranda, The Del’s new signature restaurant, delights morning and night.
There’s a bit of history behind Veranda’s name. In the resort’s early days, a portico measuring 20 feet wide and 1,800 feet long wrapped the entire exterior of the building, with more than 600 chairs along the way for people to take in the view and breathe in the ocean air. And while Veranda, the restaurant, has a lovely indoor dining room, the best seating is—without a doubt—on the patio.
I thoroughly enjoyed my feast of a meal here. My advice: Go hungry and order with abandon because everything is so darn good. The Parker House rolls are a must—warm, soft, and buttery. The lump crab cake is a winner—a large patty that’s more crab than cake is served atop a pleasantly tangy tartar sauce and a bright, tasty corn relish. Brussels sprouts are caramelized with a maple vinaigrette, pancetta, and a dusting of Parmigiano Reggiano. And those are just some of the starters. In the way of entrees, a fillet of seared king salmon is luscious and comes with wild mushroom farro, walnut romesco, and a sherry gastrique. Steaks are grilled and come with a choice of sauces—béarnaise, brandy green peppercorn, or chimichurri—and are accompanied by a delicate millefeuille potato. If you’re really hungry, you can order the C.A.B. Tomahawk. For sides, I recommend the loaded mashed potatoes—rich and packed with flavor from pancetta, cheddar cheese, and chives. There’s also a killer mac and cheese, bacon wrapped asparagus, and glazed carrots. And, yes, I tasted all of that—well, except for the Tomahawk.
On my way back to the guest room, I was hit with a twang of guilt. I’d already texted my husband to let him know I’d be sharing my leftovers with him the next day. So Holly had to settle for a soft kibble dinner of chicken bites with carrots and cranberries. I ended the night with a walk around the resort with my own little Toto.
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