Lobster dinners at the Tropicana Inn—they were an annual tradition for a group of my friends. Each January, 12 of us—mostly couples—would hop on a plane to Mexico and spend five days at an oceanfront family estate, lounging by the pool, relaxing on the white sandy beach that served as our backyard, and marveling at the migrating whales that always swim from Alaska to Mexico that time of year.
We’d spend an afternoon and evening in the charming nearby town of San Jose del Cabo to browse the shops and art galleries, then enjoy a sumptuous lobster dinner with freshly made flour tortillas, soupy beans, and margaritas on the rocks at a popular hangout—the patio restaurant at the Tropicana. It was a rustic, quaint landmark property that originally opened in the 1950s. But then—seemingly suddenly—it closed and remained shuttered for several years. I was sad—I held such fond memories of the meals we’d shared at the hacienda-style inn.
And then last year, after a years-long renovation, it re-emerged as the Tropicana Los Cabos—a larger, modernized version of its older self. Now under the umbrella of the Tapestry Collection by Hilton, the hotel’s casual, welcoming vibe remains—as does a lovely 90-year-old tree that shades one end of the courtyard and a second-floor deck outside the spa treatment rooms, where guests can participate in guided morning yoga sessions.
Design elements embrace Mexican colonial style, with walls painted white, arched walkways, terra-cotta tile flooring inside and out, and a patio and pool area draped in colorful bougainvillea and tall palm trees. And although much has changed in the way of dining, seating on the front patio overlooking the town’s main thoroughfare still provides for great people-watching while noshing on elevated culinary offerings.
DINING
The hotel is home to two restaurants now—El Patio, open 7 a.m. to 4 p.m., and Tropicana Cocina de las Californias, open 7:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. There’s also a poolside cantina—Tropico, open 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.—that mixes up refreshing cocktails to sip while lounging in the sun. (The weather is perfect for sunbathing even in December and January, when temperatures can hit 79 degrees during the day.)
Cocina de las Californias is the reincarnation of the restaurant where I enjoyed so many dinners with friends. It occupies the same stretch of street frontage, but the canvas canopy overhead has been replaced by a sturdy pergola made of wooden slats, and the authentic leather equipal chairs have been replaced by chic, comfortable all-weather wicker seating.
And then there’s the menu, built upon a farm-to-table philosophy and ingredients sourced from the Baja Peninsula. During my visit, the offerings included appetizers like grilled oysters in butter, white wine, parsley, lemon, and fish cracklings, and aguachile (which is like ceviche) made from the day’s fresh catch, with smoked avocado and jalapeño mignonette. Lobster Rosarito—another name for grilled lobster—made an appearance on the menu for main courses. But instead of beans and tortillas, it came with fried potatoes, seafood risotto, green curry, and grilled naan.
I, however, chose the catch of the day fresh from the Sea of Cortez. It was dressed with a lovely almond sauce, carrot-habanero puree, and roasted fava beans and peas. The flavors were light and balanced, and the dish could have passed muster at any top restaurant anywhere in the world.
A spacious Bar Misión occupies a large corner of the dining room inside. The space is graced with massive arched windows and a high open-beam ceiling. And the bar boasts an impressive collection of spirits on display. The staff is adept at mixing up unique craft cocktails that nod to the region with local ingredients right alongside traditional sips. It’s open and inviting—the kind of place that makes you want to belly up to the bar and watch the mixologists perform their magic.
El Patio serves up a fusion of Baja and Mediterranean cuisine in two al fresco settings—a small, pretty courtyard situated outside Bar Misión, and a larger second-floor terrace furnished with fluffy pillows on bench seating that beckon. It, too, serves up fresh catch and enticing entrees, but breakfast here rules. Choose from pillowy waffles and pancakes with fresh fruit and crème fraiche, authentic chilaquiles, and hearty omelets. And be sure to order a glass of fresh-squeezed O.J. and a coffee or cappuccino.
GUEST ROOMS
The renovation nearly doubled the number of guest accommodations. Now there are 70 (including two suites), up from the original 38, that are spread among three floors. All surround the courtyard, where guests will find the pool, spa, and chaise lounges outfitted with inviting thick white cushions.
The decor is decidedly upscale Baja—fluffy beds are crowned with hewn wooden headboards in rich brown, and dressed in pristine white linens and a soft throw blanket in brilliant blue. A small table and set of chairs—made to match the headboard—accommodate lazy mornings when room service is desired. The vanity, bathroom, and shower are laced with decorative blue-and-white Mexican tile. The space is comfortable yet modest. But you don’t want to linger inside when you have the beach, ocean, and a multitude of sights nearby.
ACTIVITIES AND ATTRACTIONS
In addition to morning yoga classes and massage treatments, the hotel offers guests free use of bicycles to pedal an easy 10-minute ride to a nearby beach or explore San Jose del Cabo. But the latter is better toured on foot. There’s so much to see here—it’s a six-minute walk to Plaza Mijares, where you’ll find City Hall on one side, the Misión San Jose del Cabo on another, and shops populating the other two. There’s always something going on here—craft fairs, concerts, and special events. It’s also the gateway to the city’s thriving arts, dining, and shopping district. Thursday evening art walks are held from June through November, and the whole town turns into a festive street party.
Year-round, however, San Jose del Cabo is a haven for shoppers looking to purchase keepsakes, art, clothing, and jewelry. I love buying baubles here—silver rings and bracelets, fire opals, cool leather accessories. A must visit: the Chocolate Factory. Located on the opposite side of town, a quick one- or two-minute walk from the Tropicana, it doubles as a candy store and museum of chocolate history.
For a day trip, book a charter cruise that will take you along the coast or go deep-sea fishing. If you’re visiting between the months of December and April, a whale-watching adventure is a must. You’ll almost certainly see whales in migration and playful dolphins diving in and out of the water. And, of course, there’s the city of Cabo San Lucas, which is about a half-hour drive from the hotel. A tourist destination since the 1950s, it’s bustling with sightseers, vacation revelers, and adventure seekers.
It’s also where you’ll find The Office on the Beach, a landmark restaurant and bar dating back to the 1970s. As the story goes, it started as a little palapa-covered spot that served up fried fish, ceviche, and burritos for locals and visiting fishermen. A gringo entrepreneur who set up a windsurfing equipment rental business on the beach would meet his clients and friends there, and began referring to the spot as The Office. The place has grown in size and popularity since then, so consider reserving a table before you go.
After a few hours in Cabo, you’ll welcome the slower pace of San Jose and the tranquility of the Tropicana.
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