Three expertly seared scallops rested atop a delicate pea puree. Purple carrots glazed in a cardamom gel poked between the plump, seasoned rounds into a bed of whole peas. Delicate saffron “glass” shavings looked pretty wedged into either end of the plate, giving the dish an amber splash of color, crispy texture, and nuanced flavor. It served as a fine representation of the culinary prowess of the team working the kitchen at the reimagined Splashes restaurant at the Surf & Sand Laguna Beach.
Dining here has always been a treat. For starters, it occupies an enviable stretch of shoreline, and it’s situated so close to the water’s edge that, at high tide especially when seated on one of the patios, you almost feel as though you’re over the ocean break. That hasn’t changed.
But now, the interior is brighter, bathed in shades of white with artwork inspired by the sea, including a stunning custom glass chandelier by artist Dale Chihuly. The refresh, part of a property-wide renovation, takes dining in casual elegance to a whole new level. It includes an overhaul of the menu and a new executive chef, Peter Lai, who has headed the kitchens at Bourbon Steak in Dana Point and Water Grill in Costa Mesa. He arrived at Splashes this past July, bringing with him a seasonal, ingredient-driven, globally inspired approach to cuisine.
And it shows. Every dish looks like a work of art, with a taste to match its beauty.
My husband and I dined there over the course of two nights and had a chance to sample a number of dishes that hit the mark each time. I ordered the Bristol scallops on our first night, and Art ordered the seared Alaskan halibut with corn puree and slivers of purple radish. Small bits of iberico chorizo and drops of a delightful peach gel dotted the plate, giving the dish a complex mix of flavors. The fish was light and fluffy, cooked to perfection.
We ordered a side of roasted wild mushrooms that were paired with a garlic-and-leek puree, the aroma was so enticing, and a small loaf of fresh artisan bread with Vermont creamery butter and herbs. It was so good, we ordered it again the next day.
The menu was plentiful and alluring. Coastal Beginnings included sharable creations like tableside lobster bisque, a generous spoonful of seasoned lobster arriving in a bowl, the warm, creamy broth poured at the table. The ahi tuna crudo was a colorful mix of ruby-hued seafood, compressed strawberry, purple radish, watercress, and a spicy-tangy aji amarillo emulsion. A thin, lacy sheet of charcoal crisp gave the dish an interesting, elegant touch.
A winner for certain was the Spanish octopus. Crispy outside, tender inside, and not the least bit fishy, it was among the best I’ve ever had. It came with a white bean hummus, Calabrian chili for a little heat, and frisee.
Rounding out the menu of starters were salads, including a wedge with lardon, pickled onion, and Stilton blue cheese; mussels; oysters; corn-and-crab risotto; and a hearty, flavorful wagyu steak tartare served with a roasted garlic-and-bone-marrow aioli and rosemary focaccia, which we sampled the following night with the octopus and ahi tuna crudo.
For my entree that second night, I chose the swordfish and was delighted when my fork pierced the fillet to reveal moist, tender seafood. So often, swordfish arrives overcooked and dry. White polenta with artichoke, fava beans, and a macha salsa olive oil jam accompanied the fish. The whole branzino was tempting, it was served with Brussels sprouts, kimchi puree, yogurt spiced with sumac and turmeric, and a blood orange vinaigrette.
Carnivores will be pleased to find offerings like Niman Ranch pork chops with rosemary spaetzle, charred romaine, strawberry mostarda, and a celery-and-strawberry vinaigrette; Colorado lamb with a turmeric crepe, caramelized onion, mustard green, and cherry gel; filet mignon with a parsley root “cloud,” braised endive, sugar snap peas, and a black garlic demi-glace; and Jidori chicken roulade with green garlic, roasted fennel, kumquat, puffed quinoa, and lemongrass jus de poulet.
Nothing is ordinary here.
I loved the deliberate pairing of flavors and textures. And the desserts did not disappoint. They’re pretty and playful, a chocolate-covered hazelnut sponge cake masqueraded as an ice cream bar, with a scoop of hazelnut gelato plopped atop a scrumptious crunchy mixture. The cheesecake was rich and divine, paired with a medley of stone fruits and a scoop of sweet peach tea ice cream over a bed of buckwheat crumble.
Dining here is an experience, and an overnight stay in one of the newly renovated and wonderfully spacious guest rooms makes it even more special. Aquaterra Spa got a facelift, too, as did the lobby, which now has a lounge area that offers sweeping views of the coast. Every room boasts an ocean view, with large glass doors that open to a private balcony furnished with a chaise lounge and a table with chairs. The rooms are full of natural light and luxe furnishings. And the ocean provides a welcome soundtrack that will lull you to sleep after a night of culinary indulgence. Sweet dreams.
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