Patriarch of Wahoo’s Fish Taco family has a tale of hard work and good fortune

Mrs. Lee set out to get him. She paid for her and her son — she was pregnant with Bismarck when Mr. Lee fled in 1950 — to be smuggled to Hong Kong on a small commercial fishing boat. At the entrance to the harbor, family lore goes, a storm tossed the boat about. The seasick stowaways threw open the hatch. Water poured in, sinking the boat and drowning nearly everyone, save for Mrs. Lee and her son.